01/October/2016 Major update to the 'Your Pictures' gallery page. 6 Jan 2012 NEW 'GOLD Series' line of highly detailed kits (look for the GOLD surround to the picture). Awaiting decals (but still available) are: 5.Beaufort Mk.II and Mk.VIII. 11. Blenheim Mk.I and Mk.IV. Complete and available NOW the 1.Beaufighter Mk.X, 2.Spitfire Mk.XIVe, 3.J2F 'Duck' Unavailable, 4.Fw189, 6. Spitfire Mk.VIII (Wargamer only), 7.Dornier17Z and Do17E/P, 8.E14Y1 'Glen', 9.Arado 196, 10.Polikarpov I-16, 12.Wellington Mk.III/Mk.X, 13.Fokker G1, 14.Walrus Mk.II.


30 Nov 2015 Walrus Mk.II available as Gold version (and wargamer version). Updated RLM colour comparison chart, Also various other WW2 airforce's colour references added see links section.


 

NEW PRICING STRUCTURE:
Kit type old price NEW price 3 kit purchase
Twin engined
'Gold series' kit
$20 $18 $48
Twin engined
'Wargamer' kit
$15 $12 $32
Single engined
'Gold Series' kit
$15 $12 $30
Single engined
'Wargamer' kit
$10 $8 $22
OLD BASIC kits $10 $8 $22
1/200
'Wargamer' kits
$10 $8 $22
 
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Resin is NOT as scary to work with as a lot of people seem to think!
       Sure you can't use regular plastic glue (It's not plastic!!). CA (Superglue) is the glue of choice even for someone like me who has an allegy to it!! A little goes a long way and the use of a toothpick dipped in a small 'pool' of CA on a palette and then placed on the joint of two parts will wick it's way in and secure them well. You can always add more if needed. I find I don't need to use an accelerator at all. Epoxy also works but has a relatively long drying time.
     Parts can be brittle, especially smaller bits, and resin doesn't have a great strength for supporting loads (IE landing gear legs on larger planes can buckle).
     Resin can warp, especially in direct hot sunlight, BUT any warped part can be fixed with the pouring of boiling water over it and gentle bending between your fingers to the right shape. It will stay in that shape unless reheated again.
     It can be filled with regular puttys. This is perhaps one of the biggest issues with resin is that depending on how well it was cast there can be numerous 'pinholes' in/on the surface and even small missing areas especially in corners and thin narrow parts. A fine putty is often needed on large areas of resin kits to fill any 'pinholes'.
     Resin also needs to be WELL washed with water and detergent to remove ALL traces of silicon and whatever else was used to help the resin casting out of the mold at time of manufacture. Rubbing alcohol or Iso or IPA will also work fine. If this step is not done then YOU run the risk of paint not adhering to the resin!
     It can be sanded and shaped with hobby knives and sandpaper. Any flash can be removed by gentle scrapping or snapping off or cutting with a scalpel and lightly sanding.
     Any paint can adhere to it (see above about cleaning first).
What plane would you like next to be upgraded (or made) to GOLD series standard?
  
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